This week, we talk vintage watches in London, buying Nomos online, and perpetual calendar chronographs from Patek Philippe and Chopard
By Chris Hall
Something to do: Join us at the Esquire Townhouse
If you have any burning questions about the vintage watch market – maybe you’re about to pull the trigger on your first vintage piece, or you’ve been collecting for years yet (like all of us) realise that the more you know, the more there is to find out, you might want to free up some time in your diary on Thursday 11th October. QP’s very own Chris Hall will be taking part in the Esquire Townhouse’s panel discussion on vintage watches, alongside much more learned names including Danny Pizzigoni of The Watch Club and collector Fred Mandelbaum. The talk runs from 5:30 to 6:15 – click here to buy tickets. (QP readers can get 20% off!)
Something to think about: Nomos Glashutte pulled from Wempe
We’ve long argued the transition to online watch sales is a case of when, not if (see our report from 2017 here), but it’s proving a bumpy road for some. Nomos Glashutte recently began offering its new watches for sale on Chronext and – perhaps even more controversially – pre-owned pieces on Chrono24, without thinking to let its established retailers know (so we’re hearing). The move has so angered retailer Wempe (which has itself just reversed a long-standing stance on e-commerce, beginning operations in Germany next year) that it has dropped the German brand from every one of its stores. The irony is that, tit-for-tat handbags aside, the best place to buy a new Nomos online remains… the brand’s own online store.
Something rare: Chopard LUC Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
Perpetual calendar chronographs are pretty thin on the ground at the best of times. Chopard’s LUC edition, first released in 2016, is particularly scarce, partly thanks to its use of ethically-sourced Fairmined gold. The brand has just announced the release of a new run of 36 pieces, half in rose gold and half in white gold. Just in time for Christmas! You can refresh your memory of the watch with our full write-up here.
Something even rarer: “The Asprey” goes on sale at Sotheby’s
In the realm of perpetual calendar chronographs, one brand is king, however. Patek Philippe’s 2499 is already a grail watch for many; now one is coming to market that threatens to set new benchmarks for eye-watering sums of money. Continuing the vexing trend that all top-tier auction watches these days must have a nickname (thanks Phillips…), it is being called “The Asprey”, on account of it being a co-dialled example that originally sold at Asprey’s in London, with the store’s signature nestling in the moonphase dial at six o’clock to prove it. The estimate is set at CHF 2,000,000 – 4,000,000, and it will be under the hammer on 13th November in Geneva.