If it was known to Esquire readers at all, the name Bulgari was probably known for its associations with the Dolce Vita – as makers of colourfully flamboyant jewellery worn by Elizabeth Taylor and Ingrid Bergman while they scooted around post-war Rome, being fabulous. As the world’s third-largest jewellery producer, after Cartier and Tiffany, the well-heeled Italians had certainly sold watches before – plenty of them, for decades – but it would have been a selective breed of male customer who’d claim bragging rights by flashing his wrist and inviting his friends to “Check out my new Bulgari”.
That changed in 2014 with the introduction of Bulgari's Octo Finissimo, a sports watch that combined traditionally masculine references (titanium case; titanium strap; geometric design) with Bulgari’s storied history in fine jewellery.
“In the 15th and 16th century, Italian artists such as Leonardo da Vinci excelled in creating both innovative and timelessly beautiful masterpieces. Driven by the same genius, Octo combines a unique octagonal design – inspired by the 310 AD Roman Massentius Basilica [sic] – with exceptional mechanisms,” announced the brand. Whether the creator of “The Last Supper” would have concurred we’ll never know – what no one could deny, though, was that the Octo Finissimo was thin. Very, very thin. The whole watch was squeezed into just 5.15mm, including a movement shaved down so it was a smidge over 2mm – there are thicker pieces of paper. It immediately broke records in the watch world – six in its first six years – most recently in 2020. Fusty jewellery brand no longer: Bulagri had a cool men’s watch.
For 2021 Bulgari has announced three new takes on the original Octo Finissimo. The Octo Finissimo S Steel Silvered Dial, the Octo Finissimo S Chronograph GMT Steel and the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Titanium.
The first is a new version of a model introduced last year, a stainless steel design with water resistance to 100m (“made possible by increasing the case just slightly to 6.4mm”), the Octo Finissimo S now comes in a monochrome option in a 40mm steel satin-polished case with a silver vertical-bushed dial contrasted with a radial brushed bezel. Like its predecessor, it is water resistant to 100m. It will retail for around £8,700.
The Octo Finissimo S Chronograph GMT Steel comes in a 43mm satin-polished case with a transparent caseback and a blue sunray dial with a silver GMT, chronograph and seconds counter. It is also water resistant to 100 meters and will be priced at £15,000.
The Octo Finissimo S Chronograph GMT Titanium, meanwhile, comes in a 42mm sandblasted titanium case with a transparent caseback; a black opaline dial and is water resistant to 30 meters.
Although none of this trio will add any record-breaking silverwear to Bulgari’s trophy cabinet, the larger sizings, sportier materials and impressive water resistance are only likely to widen Bulgari’s appeal outside the watch community. To wit, more men asking their friends to “Check out my new Bulgari”.
Failing that, we hear they do a pretty good line in jewellery.
Available from June; bulagri.com
