Germany’s design-led manufacture has breathed new life into its range with the Neomatik series. QP paid a visit to Glashütte for a closer look.
It is a credit to the well-judged simplicity of Nomos’ watch designs (not to mention their modest sizes) that they have been in production for 25 years now, and for the most part look every bit as fresh as they did when they were launched.
New families have been added down the years, of course, but the core styles at the heart of the brand (which remain its biggest sellers) – Tangente, Orion, Ludwig, Tetra and Zurich – have aged very well indeed. Joined by the Ahoi, Metro and Minimatik watches in recent years, together they represent a formidable selection of similar-yet-distinctly-different minimalist time-only watches. (I’m leaving out Club, Lux and Lambda at the lower and upper end of the Nomos range respectively; each is quite a different proposition).
And yet there has been a recognition that something was lacking – an element of choice and a visual language that would show a new side to the brand without weakening the strong designs on which it has made its name. Nomos also realised it needed a stronger offering of automatic watches to broaden its appeal to the more casual customer.
Enter Neomatik. This is, as the name would suggest, both new and automatic, but it’s not a whole new range of watches to stand alongside the existing models. Instead, Neomatik is a re-styling of five existing watches (Tangente, Orion, Metro, Ludwig and Minimatik), bringing two new colour ways to each for a grand total of ten new watches.
The one exception is the Minimatik, launched at Baselworld 2015. There is no non-Neomatik version of the Minimatik, and to all intents and purposes the watch shown in Basel was a precursor to the introduction of the full Neomatik range.
So what is the Neomatik treatment? In each case it consists of a revamping of the standard white dial model, adding colour on the minute track and hour markers, and the word “neomatik” in orange on the dial.
But it also consists of a completely new-look model for each of the five watches. These are the “champagner” versions, with champagne-coloured dials, orange detailing, and new champagne-coloured cordovan leather straps. Designer Simon Husslein worked with Nomos on the pieces – he was also the man behind the Lux and Lambda case designs. Elsewhere, small details have been tweaked, with new buckle designs, strap shapes and presentation boxes.
These are the most significant new additions to Nomos’ overall offering; while the brand sticks solidly to the line that all of its watches are unisex, these are undoubtedly the most feminine designs it has yet released.
All Neomatiks use Nomos’ new, ultra-thin (3.2mm tall) in-house automatic calibre, the DUW-3001 – an innovative and significant development, and one we will bring you more on in the near future.
To add to the sense of occasion, Nomos has announced that this series of ten new designs will be available only for a limited time (although not in a fixed limited quantity). These will be marked on the caseback as “1st edition” pieces, with production intended to pause briefly before Baselworld 2016, when new, non-limited designs will be shown.
For more information on the Nomos Neomatik, click here.