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The Very Best Dive Watches A Man Can Buy In 2020
From stone-cold classics to limited edition releases, these diving watches prove things really are better down where it's wetter
Diving watches ought to be a niche category. Even actual divers rarely use them, computers having taken over the business of measuring oxygen and time under the water years ago. Yet they remain overwhelmingly popular, the sort of watch that startups tend to launch first, and the one that likely comes to mind if someone said to you ‘draw me a men’s watch’.
Dive watches distinguish themselves by size, being typically bigger and bulkier than other watch categories. And also function, usually coming equipped with a rotating bezel (the ring around the crystal, used to record elapsed time/ oxygen), a helium escape valve and a screw-down crown. Dive watches as we know them now date back to the early Fifties and are marketed today on brand history and by association with the sea. Rolex’s Submariner, Omega’s Seamaster and Breitling’s Superocean are some of the most well-known examples, and remain among the best-selling and best-reviewed lines. Rolex can take the credit for popularising the style though, pioneering advances in in water-resistance with the first ‘Hermetic’ watch in 1924 and then its ‘Oyster’ watch in 1926.
Panerai is another brand with an important legacy. Its Radimor was made for the Italian navy in 1936, followed in 1950 by the Luminor, made famous by its crown-protecting lock and cushion shape. Rolex’s classic Submariner debuted in 1953 just as submarine exploration was gaining traction. Jacques Cousteau and his crew wore Blancpain Fifty Fathoms watches during the filming of Le Monde du Silence, winner of the Palme D’Or at the Cannes Film Festival in 1956.
By definition, today’s dive watches must conform to certain criteria. As well as water resistance of at least 100m, they need to be easily visible underwater, hence dial designs with contrasting hands and numerals, and luminescent details.
Even if the closest many of us will get to deep water is a holiday by the seaside, the appeal of dive watches endures.. The lure of underwater adventure lives on.
Panerai Luminor Submersible
SHOP
Cool enough for the frogmen of the Italian Navy, so cool enough for you too. The matt black 'Carobotecha' bezel is almost unbreakably strong, and each one is unique.
£13,000; panerai.com
Omega Seamaster 300m
Overhauled to meet modern specs in 2018, this model retains the pioneering appearance of Omega’s longest-running line. James Bond’s watch of choice has the chops to serve real-life scuba divers to a depth of 300m, too.
£4,170; omegawatches.com
Seiko Prospex 1970s Diver's Recreation
A modern version of the model known as the ‘Willard’, the watch worn by Martin ‘Captain Willard’ Sheen in Apocalypse Now. The eye-catching asymmetrical design features the crown at 4 o’ clock as per other Seiko divers.
£780; seikowatches.com
Tudor Pelagos
The diver at its most business-like, with a matt black dial and matt ceramic bezel. The bracelet, case and bezel are titanium (as opposed to the more common stainless steel), and you get all the Swiss accuracy you’d expect from Rolex’s sibling line, at a fraction of the price.
£3,440; tudorwatch.com
Longines Hydroconquest
Clean, classic and on trend, the new green version of this well-presented dive watch joins blue, grey and black renditions in the line-up.
£1,230; longines.com
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda Limited Edition
SHOP
A faithful recreation of a Seventies model produced for the Germany navy, the unusual two-tone hour markers add a layer of retro cool to some unimpeachable military heritage.
£12,060; blancpain.com
Breitling
Superocean Heritage II Chronograph
The original SuperOcean series was developed for divers. Breitling’s recent collection reflects those ‘eager to explore the ocean’ in more myriad forms. The red gold/ black rubber strap combination is especially smart.
£5,840; breitling.com
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