The Rolexicon: your essential guide to all Rolex nicknames and official terminology
Rolex collecting has developed its own jargon over the years. Here’s our exhaustive guide to the nicknames, unofficial designations and Rolex’s own brand lingo
Rolex collecting has developed its own jargon over the years. Here’s our exhaustive guide to the nicknames, unofficial designations and Rolex’s own brand lingo, from Kermit and the Hulk to Oystersteel and Double-Reds.
Batman
The nickname given to the black-and-blue GMT-Master II bezel combo launched in 2013. AKA ‘Bruiser’ or 'BLNR' after its reference number 116710BLNR
Bombay Lugs
A stylised bracelet attachment on Forties Oysters. Image courtesy of Antiquorum, showing a ref. 5018 from 1948.
Bubbleback
Vintage case style from 1930s-50s with a distinctively domed caseback to accommodate the winding rotor. Especially bulbous examples gain the additional nickname "Ovettone", literally meaning 'Big Egg' in Italian.
Cerachrom
A Rolex-developed ceramic material used for its “Professional” models, virtually impervious to scratches, with a colour unaffected by UV rays. As of 2013, available in multiple colours - see "Batman", "Cola" and "Pepsi".
Coca-Cola
The name given to all black-and-red GMT-Master II bezel combos, be they aluminium or ceramic (see Cerachrom; "Batman"; "Pepsi"), first produced in 1982.
Dirty Harry
Another name for the “Root Beer” colour-scheme GMT-Master ref. 1675, famously worn by Clint Eastwood, even though his most famous character sported a Timex as he blew away the bad guys. This example from 1970 was estimated between $4,000 and $6,000 at Antiquorum back in 2016.
Double-Red
The Sea-Dweller Submariner 2000 from the late 1960s, with the latter nomination appearing as two lines on the dial, both in red (see also ‘Single-red’). This ref. 9315 example from 1977 was sold at Antiquorum in 2014.
Everose
Rolex’s own term for its in-house-cast 18ct pink gold alloy, whose jealously guarded formula ensures peerless durability and brilliance. And a name plucked straight from fantasy fiction.
Fat Lady
Ref. 16760 GMT-Master II made between 1983 and 1988 with red and black bezel only, so-named for its case being 1mm larger than its counterparts. This fine 1984 example was sold at Antiquorum in 2012.
Freccione
A 1971 Explorer II 1655, named after the Italian for “big arrow” in reference to the extra hour-hand with the large arrow tip. AKA “Steve McQueen” due to a hotly disputed rumour that the King of Cool himself wore one.
Gilt
Submariner from the late Fifties to Nineties with dial printing finished in gold. This ref. 6536 was sold at Antiquorum Hong Kong in 2016.
Great White
A 1977 ref. 1665 Sea-Dweller, whose characteristic red text had been replaced with an all-white font across the four lines of text.
Hulk
The green-dial, green-Cerachrom-bezel Submariner launched in 2010 to replace the Kermit. Reference 116610LV to its colleagues.
Jean-Claude Killy
Ultra-rare version of Rolex’s only ever combination of chronograph and full calendar, known (also colloquially) as the Dato-Compax and named after the 1968 triple-gold-medallist Olympic skier who wore one, and went on to be a Rolex ambassador. Produced between 1940-1960 in four references, of which the 6236 was the last and, perhaps, most desirable. This ref. 6036 steel example was made in 1951.
Kermit
Black-dial, green-bezel Submariner launched in its 50th-anniversary year of 2003, often preferred over the Hulk’s greenwash. Also known as Reference 16610LV.
Mercedes
Classic style of hours hand ‘dot’ first introduced with 1953’s Explorer 6150, ideally shaped to hold lume material. This example was sold for $10,200 at Antiquorum in 2010.
Nipple
Style of dial with applied, raised dots at 1, 2, 4, 5, 7, 8, 10 and 11 o’clock, often in ‘Root Beer’ colour scheme as seen here.
Oysterflex
The name given to Rolex's polymer-based straps, first introduced on the Yacht-Master 40 in 2015 and increasingly available across the Oyster range. It has a flexible thin metal blade made from a titanium/nickel alloy at its core, encased in high density elastomer. Just don't call it a rubber strap.
Oystersteel
The name Rolex uses for its stainless steel (since 2018). It is the same 904L grade steel that Rolex has used since 1985, which is polished to a fine standard. Since adopting the name Oystersteel there is no implication that Rolex's case finishing has improved; the name is more about formalising the existing production processes.
Papa Smurf
A white-gold ref. 116619 Submariner launched in 2008 with royal-blue dial and bezel. All a little bit stealth-wealth.
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